The traditional meal to eat on New Year’s Eve across Japan is toshikoshi soba. The dish symbolizes longevity and letting go of the past year's hardships, with the long, easily cut noodles representing a fresh start. But in Nagoya, and other parts of the region, many households eat sukiyaki instead.
Why is Sukiyaki eaten in Nagoya on New Year's Eve?
The most likely theory for how this tradition originated dates back to the Meiji era when Nagoya Cochin, a breed of chicken referred to as the “wagyu of chicken”, were first bred by local samurai.
Many households kept chickens in their garden throughout the pre-war period and would cook them for an end-of-the-year feast before the holiday. The dish that was eaten at this celebration was usually Hikizuri Nabe.
Hikizuri Nabe is made by simmering vegetables in a sweet and savory broth, then dragging bite size pieces of chicken across the bottom of the pot, hence the name “hikiuri” which means “dragging” in Japanese.
It is said the dish became a metaphor for the New Year in the region, embracing the idea of finishing all the things that have been left undone or “dragged out” during the previous year.
Over time, as the Japanese economy grew and people started to westernize their diet, beef began to replace chicken in many dishes in the region. And sukiyaki, a nearly identical dish using thinly sliced beef instead of chicken, began to replace Hikizuri Nabe.
When eating sukiyaki, many people enjoy dipping the beef and vegetables into raw egg, so in a sense, the tradition of enjoying Nagoya Cochin on New Year’s Eve still remains.
Where to eat Hikizuri Nabe
For those "in the know" who still enjoy eating Hikizuri Nabe at the end of the year, there are some restaurants in Nagoya that still serve up this historic dish.
Nagoya Cochin Kururu (樞くるる)
4 Chome-3-11 Meieki, Nakamura Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 450-0002
The restaurant opened their first store in 1956 in the Sakae area of Nagoya with a goal of providing local office workers with a variety of delicious ways to eat chicken. Nowadays, there are several branched searing popular purebred Nagoya Cochin dishes including Hikizuri Nabe.
The branch closest to Nagoya Station evokes the atmosphere of the city’s Edo past. Counter seating as well table seating and private rooms are available.
Kitcho (吉兆)
〒451-0046 Aichi, Nagoya, Nishi Ward, Ushijimacho, 1−9 長野ビル
This yakitori restaurant specializes in slowly grilling chicken over binchotan charcoal to get the best possible flavors out of the meat. And for those wanting to try high-quality Japanese sake, the shop has over 300 different bottles available, all selected by a sake sommelier.
While the restaurant specializes in yakitori, they have other Nagoya Cochin dishes available from their course menu. And from October to March each year they offer a special Hikizuri Nabe course meal for 4 people or more (reservations required).
Recommended Sukiyaki Restaurants in Nagoya
For those who prefer the more modern style of beef sukiyaki, Nagoya has plenty of quality restaurants to choose from. And with Nagoya being close to the homes of both Hida-gyu and Matsusaka-gyu, two of Japan's top forms of wagyu, there is some seriously high quality beef available to try in the city.
Sugimoto Honten (スギモト 本店)
〒460-0008 Aichi, Nagoya, Naka Ward, Sakae, 3 Chome−1−35
This restaurant is run by a long-established butcher shop in Sakae founded in 1900. They serve dishes made with carefully selected beef including premium wagyu such as Matsusaka beef.
All rooms are private, creating a relaxing Japanese atmosphere. You can choose from a table, tatami room, or sunken kotatsu table.
Akabeko (あかべこ)
〒461-0005 Aichi, Nagoya, Higashi Ward, Higashisakura, 1 Chome−2−25 2F
This izakaya is popular for its sukiyaki, sake, and side dishes. It's a modern Japanese hideaway tucked away off Sakura-dori Street. It has a counter and private rooms with sunken kotatsu tables, making it suitable for a variety of occasions.
Want to Learn More about Nagoya's Food Traditions and History?
Recommended Tour: Snow Monkey Resort's 1-Day Tour: Nagoya's Highlights and Small Bites will not only give you a taste of the wonderful flavors of the region and introduce you to some of the most notable landmarks in the city (including Nagoya Castle, Sakae, and Osu shopping district), but will also provide you with the confidence to go out and try more "Nagoya Meshi" on your own.
