Preserved Perfectly for 200 Years
Since the early days of the Edo Period, geisha have mesmerised guests in their tea houses. The elegant performers are known worldwide for their beautiful clothes, ivory-white makeup and distinct hair style. Many tourists come to Japan with the hope of seeing a geisha for themselves. Kanazawa is fortunate to have Shima, the oldest original teahouse in Japan, located in its Higashi Chaya tea district.
What are Geisha?
Geisha are traditional performers in Japan. During the Edo Period (1603-1868), they were the centre of the entertainment industry. Highly trained from a young age, geisha performed tea ceremony, danced and played instruments, told jokes, sang, and played games to entertain their customers.
In the modern era, geisha are some of the most mysterious and elusive entertainers in Japan. They are held in high regard for their artistry and dedication to the traditions of the industry. Incredibly protective of their privacy, modern geisha performances can be extremely expensive for the private customer.
The most famous geisha district in Japan, Gion, has been the source of controversy in recent years. As of April 2024, many of the district’s streets are now closed to tourists after repeated harassment. The change has prompted many tourists to instead learn about the interesting history and mysterious culture of the geisha.
Shima - Japan's Oldest Original Teahouse
Where better, then, than Shima? Geiko, as they are called in Kanazawa, entertained guests here for 100 years. It closed in 1920 to re-open as a museum. Since then, it has been dedicated to maintaining the tea house as Edo Period guests would have experienced it. Those entering the museum can see the rooms where geiko hosted their guests, as well as taking time to appreciate the opulence of the setting. From the tapestries on the walls, the artistic expression of the flower arrangements, the gold leaf partitions and the handcrafted cups and bowls, Shima is a masterclass in the subtle ways of showing refinement.
Behind the two main performing rooms is the private room, decorated in a soft green. This is the room where geiko would host wealthy individuals, away from prying eyes. Despite being private, this room is no more lavish than the others. Here was purely for seclusion and the status it brought.
Were Geisha Courtesans?
It's a touchy subject for those working within the geisha industry today and, historically, the answer is not a simple yes or no. In modern times, however, definitely not. Geisha have solidified their status as a high class artform. Throughout history, though, there were almost certainly some geisha who sold sex. How prominent that was throughout the industry is anybody's guess.
Why Were Geisha so Secretive?
The geisha themselves cultivated a deep secrecy about what went on at their performances. As they were largely hired for private events, the mystique itself was part of the appeal. Geisha also went through years of intense training to master the ideal ways of performing elegantly.
When it came to customers, secrecy was expected. It was an unwritten law among geisha that sharing details of who their clients were, what they said, and what they did was never gossiped about.
Downstairs in Shima
Past the kitchen downstairs, you may want to partake in another of Kanazawa’s local products: matcha. This room was originally the geiko’s dressing room but has been converted into a quiet seating area. You can enjoy a relaxing matcha drink and a traditional Japanese sweet to balance the flavour while you look out at the garden.
Back inside, you will pass through the “mother”’s room. As you do so, take some time to examine the delicate and intricate carvings on the obi, the sash worn around the stomach when wearing a kimono. Just before the exit, you can watch a looping video showcasing real geisha performing using the instruments and equipment found in the teahouse. It will give you a real sense of the geisha experience. Also in this room is a variety of teapots, bowls, hair clips and assorted items used by the Kanazawa geiko. These items were incredibly expensive, each one unique, to further cement Shima’s status as Kanazawa’s premier teahouse.
Interested? Book with us!
If you'd like to see Shima for yourself and want to learn more about the geisha and their history, why not book a tour with us? One of our experienced and enthusiastic guides will take you on a wonderful tour of the city. Drink matcha, stroll through one of the country's most famous gardens and feel the history of the geisha at the Higashi Chaya Tea District.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I see geisha at Shima?
Shima closed as a tea house in 1920, which is the reason why it's so well preserved. However, it means that you can no longer see geisha there. Private geisha shows elsewhere are best organised individually.
Is Shima the oldest original geisha house in Japan?
Yes! Shima opened in 1820 and is the oldest original geisha house in Japan. Other tea houses have had extensive restoration work done or have been completely rebuilt. For that reason, Shima is an important piece of history. Visitors to the museum are encouraged to be as careful as possible as they go around.
Can I drink matcha at Shima?
Yes, you can. The area where the geisha used to get ready has been converted into a small cafe serving matcha and sweets. It costs 800 yen for one person.
